'He ʻano TikTok ke kaumaha'

Ua aʻo mua nā makasina nani i ka poʻe heluhelu pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka make-up e hūnā i kahi sesh uē hou.Akā i kēia manawa, hoʻokahiTikTokPaipai ke au iā mākou e ʻapo i kēlā mau maka noe a me nā ihu ʻulaʻula."Ka make-up uē," me he mea lā, aia i loko.

Ma kahi kiʻi i loaʻa ma mua o 507,000 makemake, hāʻawi ʻo Zoe Kim Kenealy ka mea nāna i hoʻokumu i ka ʻike ma Boston i kahi kumu aʻo "no nā kaikamahine paʻa ʻole" e loaʻa ai ke ʻano o kahi uwē hou ʻoiai "inā ʻaʻole ʻoe i ke ʻano e uē".

Hoʻomaka ʻo ia me kahi ʻōlinolino no "kēlā puffy, palupalu, lehelehe", a laila swipe kahi aka ʻulaʻula a puni nā maka, a pili hope.ʻālohilohi makaa puni kona mau maka no kekahi "alohilohi"."Makemake au e nānā me he uē maikaʻi wau i nā manawa a pau," wahi a kekahi mea nānā."Ua nani au ma hope o koʻu uē ʻana," i kākau ai kekahi."ʻAʻole hiki iaʻu ke ʻike inā ʻo ka maka a i ʻole ka ihu ʻulaʻula."

Ua haʻi aku ʻo Kenealy, ʻo 26 a he 119,000 mau mea hahai TikTok, i ka Guardian ua hoʻoikaika ʻia ʻo ia e ʻelua mau ʻano makeup hikina hikina: Douyin a me Ulzzang.Hoʻokomo ʻia nā ʻano ʻelua i ka nui o ka blush, glitter a me ka hōʻike ʻana i ka wahi ma lalo o ka maka no ka hopena cherubic holoʻokoʻa.

“Ua hoʻoulu ʻia e ka ʻōlinolino o kou maka ma hope o kou uē ʻana,” wahi a Kenealy.Manaʻo ʻo ia he nani wale ka nānā ʻana, ʻaʻole hoʻopunipuni."ʻO ka poʻe - ʻo ka hapa nui o nā kāne - ke ʻōlelo nei ʻo 'Amber Heard' ma kaʻu wikiō," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia, e pili ana i nā pūʻulu o Johnny Depp TikTok fans e manaʻoʻiʻo nei ua hoʻopunipuni kāna wahine mua ma ke kū e pili ana i kāna hana hoʻomāinoino.“He hiʻohiʻona make-up ʻaʻole wau e ʻaʻahu i waho.ʻAʻole i manaʻo ʻia e hoʻopunipuni i kekahi.

ʻO ka pōʻino, a i ʻole ka liʻiliʻi o ka hana ʻana, aia ma luna o TikTok - no ka mea aia ma ka honua maoli nō hoʻi.Ma kahi 2021 Harvard Youth Poll, ʻoi aku ma mua o ka hapalua o nā ʻōpio ʻAmelika i ʻōlelo ua "haʻahaʻa, kaumaha, a me ka manaʻolana ʻole" i nā lā ʻehiku i hala.

A i ka wā o nā kaua honua, ka laha ʻana o ka racism, ka pilikia ʻole o ke aniau a me ka mehameha nui, ʻaʻole lawa ka lehelehe ʻulaʻula maʻalahi.Akā, ua puka mai nā ʻano nani e kūlike me ka malaise o kēia mau lā.Aia ka "pout dissociative", i kapa ʻia ʻo "lobotomy-chic, dead-eyed" kaikaina i nā lehelehe i hala i kēia manawa i loaʻa i nā influencers 2010s i kahi chokehold.Hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike iā ia i loko o ka hoʻolaha pūnaewele like ʻole o Euphoria's breakout waif Chloe Cherry, a i ʻole ka nānā ʻana i waho ma ka ʻaoʻao Instagram ʻo Olivia Rodrigo.

Hiki ke lilo i #SadGirlWalk i kēlā me kēia hele inā hoʻolohe ʻoe iā Lana Del Rey a nānā pono i kahi mamao.ʻO ka hashtag, me ka ʻoi aku o 504,000 mau hiʻohiʻona, e hōʻike ana i nā wikiō o nā wahine ʻōpio e nānā ʻoluʻolu ana i ka wā e lawe ana i nā lattes hau a hōʻike i kā lākou mau lole."E ʻae mai iaʻu e uē iā Taylor Swift i ka wā e hele ana a hiki ʻole iaʻu," wahi a kekahi mea hoʻohana i kā lākou clip.

ʻO Fredrika Thelandersson, he mea noiʻi postdoctoral i ka media a me nā haʻawina kamaʻilio ma Sweden's Lund University a me ka mea kākau o ka puke hou 21st Century Media and Female Mental Health, e aʻo i nā moʻomeheu kaikamahine a me nā kaiāulu.

"Ma ka ʻāina o kēia manawa, makemake ka poʻe kaulana a me nā hōʻailona i ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, e ʻike maoli ʻia," wahi āna."ʻO kahi ala e hana ai i kēia ʻo ka hōʻike ʻana i kahi hōʻailona a hōʻike paha i kahi trauma.He mea waiwai maoli ka hōʻike ʻana i kekahi ʻano nāwaliwali. "

Hoʻopili kēia ma o TikTok, wehewehe ʻo Thelandersson, e hoʻoheheʻe i ke ʻano o ka ʻōlelo olakino a me ka psychological."ʻO ka dissociation kahi hōʻailona o PTSD, a i kēia manawa ke kiʻi ʻia nei ma ke ʻano he aesthetic," wahi āna."Ua ʻōlelo nui kēia e pili ana i ka hana maikaʻi ʻole o ka poʻe i kēia manawa a pono i ke kākoʻo, a lilo ka media media i wahi e hiki ai iā lākou ke loaʻa nā mea e loaʻa ʻole mai kahi ʻōnaehana olakino maʻamau."

A pehea inā e hoʻopunipuni ana kekahi i ko lākou kaumaha me ka waimaka hoʻopunipuni a i ʻole kahi hiʻohiʻona mamao?

"Malia paha ke hana nei ia i nā manaʻo kaumaha, akā aia kahi ʻano hui ke ʻike ʻoe i ka manaʻo like o nā poʻe ʻē aʻe, a he ʻano ʻano ia," wahi a Thelandersson."Hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻakaʻaka iā ia e like me kou makemake, akā ke ʻano o ka manaʻolana ma ke ʻano."

ʻAʻole ʻo Gen Z ka hanauna mua i ʻike i ka louche allure o oversharing - ʻo nā kiʻi Gen X e like me Fiona Apple, Courtney Love a me Elizabeth Wurtzel hope loa i hana i nā ʻoihana ma waho o ka makahiki 90.Ua hoʻomaka ka mea kākau ʻo Emily Gould i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka blogging boom, me nā ʻōlelo kikoʻī loa i hāʻule pinepine i ka ʻāpana aloha-a-inaina.Hana ʻo Emo e like me Paramore a me My Chemical Romance ma luna o nā palapala mele o ka makahiki 2010, me nā mele haʻiʻōlelo a me kahi hiʻohiʻona goth-e pili ana i nā bangs ʻaoʻao swoopy a me ka nani o ka maka ʻeleʻele.

ʻO Audrey Wollen, ka mea kākau i haku i ka huaʻōlelo "Sad Girl Theory" i ka makahiki 2014, ua loaʻa ka kaulana ma ka pūnaewele ma o kāna noi ʻana ʻo ke kaumaha ma ka lehulehu he ʻano kūʻē kūʻē i ka patriarchy. keʻokeʻo, wiwi, nani maʻamau a waiwai kūʻokoʻa).

Akā i kēia manawa a puni, ʻo ka hiki ʻana o TikTok (kokoke i 1 biliona mea hoʻohana ma 150 mau ʻāina) ke kōkua nei i ka laha ʻana i ka laha ʻana ma kahi helu ʻike ʻole."Manaʻo wau he poʻe ʻōpio wale nō ka loaʻa ʻana o ka pūnaewele," wahi a ka mea kākau nani o InStyle ʻo Tamim Alnuweiri."I koʻu wā ʻōpiopio, hoʻopaʻa pū wau i koʻu poʻo i ka puka makani a hoʻohālike wau aia wau i loko o kahi wikiō mele i ka wā ua ua, akā ʻoi aku ka lehulehu o kā lākou manaʻo."

ʻO Kelly Cutrone, ka moʻolelo PR nāna i hoʻokumu i ka hui ʻo People's Revolution a ʻike ʻia ma The Hills, The City and America's Next Top Model, i kekahi manawa i kākau i kahi puke aʻoaʻo ʻoihana i kapa ʻia ʻo If You Have to Cry, Go Outside."Ua aʻo ia i ka poʻe pehea e hana ai i ko lākou mau manaʻo ma ka wahi hana," wahi āna.“He mea minamina ka lilo ʻana o ke kaumaha i mea maʻamau.Akā he 20 kaʻu mau makahiki, a ua hele kēlā mau keiki i loko o Gehena [i ka wā maʻi maʻi].

Ua hana ʻo Cutrone i kāna huaʻōlelo ponoʻī e wehewehe i nā keiki āna i ʻike ai i nā hui i kēia manawa: "nocturnal romance".E noʻonoʻo i ka "zombie dark angel vibes: nā keiki ʻaʻohe hapa ke nānā aku i waho, me kēia mau hiʻohiʻona ʻē aʻe."

ʻO lākou nā "mea ola o ka pō", i hoʻohui ʻia ai ʻo Cutrone, e hoʻopiʻi ana iā Julia Fox, ke ʻano o ka maka i ʻike pinepine ʻia e holoholo ana ma nā alanui o New York me nā jeans ʻoki haʻahaʻa, nā kino Balenciaga, a me nā ʻāpana o ka eyeliner ʻeleʻele mānoanoa."Loaʻa iā ia kēia posse o nā kaikamahine e hele mai i kaʻu mau hanana i kekahi manawa a he mau kaikamahine nō lākou," wahi a Cutrone."ʻAʻole ʻo Twiggy nā kaikamahine: ʻo Elvira lākou."