'Chisoni ndi chikhalidwe cha TikTok'

Magazini a Beauty nthawi ina anaphunzitsa owerenga momwe angagwiritsire ntchito zodzoladzola kuti abise sesh yaposachedwapa yomwe ikulira.Koma tsopano, mmodziTikTokkumatilimbikitsa kukumbatira maso akhungu ndi mphuno za duwa."Zodzoladzola zolira," zikuwoneka, zili mkati.

Mu kanema yemwe akonda kupitilira 507,000, wopanga zolemba ku Boston Zoe Kim Kenealy akupereka maphunziro "kwa atsikana osakhazikika" kuti akwaniritse kulira kwatsopano ngakhale "ngati simukufuna kulira".

Amayamba ndi gloss yonyezimira ya "milomo yotuwa, yofewa, yofewa", kenaka amasuntha mthunzi wofiyira m'maso, ndipo pamapeto pake amayika.glitter eyelinerkuzungulira nkhope yake "kuwala" kwina.“Ndimafuna kuoneka ngati ndikulira kwambiri nthaŵi zonse,” wowonerera wina anatero.“Ndimamva bwino kwambiri ndikalira,” analemba motero wina."Sindingathe kudziwa ngati ndi zingwe za m'maso kapena mphuno zofiira."

Kenealy, yemwe ali ndi zaka 26 ndipo ali ndi otsatira 119,000 a TikTok, adauza Guardian kuti adadzozedwa ndi machitidwe awiri akum'mawa kwa Asia: Douyin ndi Ulzzang.Mitundu yonse iwiriyi imaphatikizapo kuchita manyazi, kunyezimira komanso kuwunikira pansi pa maso kuti pakhale mawonekedwe a kerubic.

Kenealy anati: “Zimalimbikitsidwa ndi kuthwanima kwa diso lako ukalira.Amatsindika kuti maonekedwe ake ndi okongoletsedwa chabe, osati kusakhulupirika."Anthu - makamaka amuna - akhala akuyankha 'Amber Heard' pa kanema wanga," adatero, ponena za gulu la mafani a Johnny Depp TikTok omwe amakhulupirira kuti mkazi wake wakale analira zabodza pomuzunza.“Ndi zodzoladzola zomwe sindikanavala panja.Sichiyenera kunyenga aliyense.”

Zowawa, kapena momwe zimachitikira, zatha TikTok - mwina chifukwa zili padziko lonse lapansi.Mu 2021 Harvard Youth Poll, opitilira theka la achinyamata aku America adati adakhala "okhumudwa, okhumudwa, kapena opanda chiyembekezo" m'masiku asanu ndi awiri apitawa.

Ndipo mu nthawi ya nkhondo zapadziko lonse, kusankhana mitundu, vuto la nyengo losasunthika komanso kusungulumwa kwadzaoneni, mlomo wofiyira wosavuta sikulinso wokwanira.M'malo mwake, kukongola kwatuluka kuti kufanane ndi kusakhazikika kwamasiku ano.Pali "dissociative pout", yomwe iD idatcha "lobotomy-chic, maso akufa" kwa milomo ya bakha yomwe tsopano yadutsa yemwe anali ndi zisonkhezero za m'ma 2010.Mutha kuziwona ngati chidole chapaintaneti cha Euphoria waif Chloe Cherry, kapena kuyang'ana patali patsamba la Instagram la Olivia Rodrigo.

Kuyenda kulikonse kungakhale #SadGirlWalk ngati mumvera Lana Del Rey ndikuyang'ana motalikirana.Hashtag, yomwe ili ndi mawonedwe opitilira 504,000, imakhala ndi makanema a atsikana omwe akuwoneka otopa kwinaku akunyamula ma latte a iced ndikuwonetsa zovala zawo."Ndiroleni ndililire kwa Taylor Swift ndikuyenda mpaka sindingathenso," wogwiritsa ntchito wina adayankhapo pa clip yawo.

Fredrika Thelandersson, wofufuza pambuyo pa udokotala pa maphunziro atolankhani ndi kulumikizana ku Sweden's Lund University komanso wolemba buku latsopano 21st Century Media and Female Mental Health, amaphunzira zikhalidwe za atsikana pa intaneti ndi madera.

"M'mawonekedwe apano, anthu otchuka ndi ma brand amafuna kukhala owona, kuti awoneke ngati enieni," adatero."Njira imodzi yochitira izi ndikuwulula matenda kapena kuwulula zoopsa.Zimakhala zopindulitsa kusonyeza kusatetezeka kwamtundu wina. ”

Izi zikuyenda kudzera ku TikTok, Thelandersson adalongosola, ndikuchepetsa tanthauzo lachilankhulo chamankhwala komanso zamaganizidwe."Kudzipatula ndi chizindikiro cha PTSD, ndipo tsopano akutengedwa ngati kukongola," adatero."Izi zikunena zambiri za momwe anthu sakuchita bwino pakali pano ndipo amafunikira thandizo, ndipo malo ochezera a pa Intaneti amakhala malo omwe angapeze zomwe sakanapeza kuchokera kuzipatala zachikhalidwe."

Nanga bwanji ngati wina akuwonetsa chisoni chake ndi misozi yabodza kapena mawonekedwe achinyengo?

"Mwina kumachita zachisoni, koma pali mbali ina pamene muzindikira kuti anthu ena amamvanso chimodzimodzi, ndipo ndi mtundu wamtundu," adatero Thelandersson."Mutha kuseka izi momwe mungafunire, koma ndikukhalabe ndi chiyembekezo mwanjira ina."

Gen Z si m'badwo woyamba kupeza zokopa zamtundu wina - Zithunzi za Gen X monga Fiona Apple, Courtney Love ndi malemu Elizabeth Wurtzel onse adapanga ntchito m'ma 90s.Wolemba Emily Gould adamupangitsa kuti ayambe kulemba mabulogu, ndikulemba mosabisa mawu komwe nthawi zambiri kumakhala mgulu lachikondi ndi chidani.Emo imakhala ngati Paramore ndi My Chemical Romance yomwe inkalamulira ma chart a nyimbo a 2010s, okhala ndi mawu olapa komanso mawonekedwe oyandikana nawo a swoopy side bangs komanso zopakapaka zakuda kwambiri.

Audrey Wollen, wolemba yemwe adapanga mawu oti "Sad Girl Theory" mu 2014, adatchuka pa intaneti kudzera mu lingaliro lake loti kukhala achisoni poyera ndi njira yovomerezeka yotsutsa abambo (ngakhale Wollen's archetype wa msungwana wapa intaneti wa Tumblr nthawi zambiri amatanthauzidwa kuti. kukhala woyera, woonda, wokongola mwachizolowezi komanso wolemera paokha).

Koma nthawi ino, Kufikira kwakukulu kwa TikTok (ogwiritsa ntchito pafupifupi 1 biliyoni m'maiko 150) akuthandizira kuti izi zifalikire pamlingo womwe sunachitikepo."Ndikuganiza kuti zina mwa izi ndi achinyamata omwe ali ndi mwayi wambiri wogwiritsa ntchito intaneti," wolemba za kukongola wa InStyle Tamim Alnuweiri adatero."Ndili wachinyamata, ndidayikanso mutu wanga pazenera ndikunamizira kuti ndili muvidiyo yanyimbo kugwa mvula, koma mtundu wawo wamtunduwu ndiwowonekera kwambiri."

Kelly Cutrone, nthano ya PR yomwe idayambitsa gulu la People's Revolution ndipo adawonekera pa The Hills, The City and America's Next Top Model, nthawi ina adalemba buku la upangiri wantchito lotchedwa Ngati Muyenera Kulira, Pitani Kunja.Iye anati: “Zinaphunzitsa anthu mmene angachitire ndi maganizo awo kuntchito."N'zomvetsa chisoni kwambiri kuti chisoni chingakhale chikhalidwe.Koma ndili ndi mwana wazaka 20, ndipo ana onsewo anapita kumoto [panthaŵi ya mliriwo].”

Cutrone adapanga mawu ake kuti afotokoze ana omwe amawawona m'makalabu posachedwapa: "chikondi chausiku".Ganizirani "mavina a angelo amdima a zombie: ana amaliseche omwe amawoneka otopa, ndi mawonekedwe odabwitsa awa".

Ndiwo "zolengedwa zausiku", Cutrone anawonjezera, akuthamangitsa Julia Fox, wokondedwa wa maso a doe yemwe nthawi zambiri amamuwona akuyendayenda m'misewu ya New York mu jeans odulidwa otsika, mavalidwe a thupi la Balenciaga, ndi zigawo za eyeliner yakuda."Ali ndi mwayi wa atsikana omwe amabwera kuzochitika zanga nthawi zina ndipo amakhala atsikana," adatero Cutrone."Asungwana salinso Twiggy: ndi Elvira."