'Ukudabuka kuwumkhuba we-TikTok'

Omagazini bobuhle bake bafundisa abafundi indlela yokusebenzisa izimonyo ukuze bafihle isililo sakamuva.Kodwa manje, eyodwaI-TikTokukuthambekela kusikhuthaza ukuba samukele lawo mehlo anenkungu namakhala aluhlaza.“Izimonyo ezikhalayo,” kubonakala sengathi isingenile.

Esiqeshaneni esizuze ukuthandwa okungaphezu kuka-507,000, umdali wokuqukethwe osekelwe e-Boston u-Zoe Kim Kenealy unikeza okokufundisa "kumantombazane angazinzile" ukuze afinyelele ukubukeka kokukhala okusha ngisho "noma ungekho esimweni sokukhala".

Uqala ngesicwebezelisi esisho “lolodebe olukhukhumele, oluthambile, oluthambile”, abese eswayipha isithunzi esibomvu eduze kwamehlo, bese ekugcineni esebenza.i-eyeliner ekhazimulayoebusweni bakhe ukuze "bukhanye".“Ngifuna ukubukeka sengathi ngihlale ngikhala,” kuphawula omunye umbukeli.“Ngizizwa ngimuhle kakhulu ngemva kokukhala,” kubhala omunye.“Angazi noma imivimbo yamehlo noma ikhala elibomvu.”

UKenealy, oneminyaka engama-26 futhi onabalandeli beTikTok abayi-119,000, utshele i-Guardian ukuthi ugqugquzelwe yizitayela ezimbili zokwenziwa empumalanga ye-Asia: uDouyin no-Ulzzang.Zombili lezi zinhlobo zifaka inani elanele lokufiphala, ukucwazimula kanye nokugqamisa indawo engaphansi kwamehlo ngomphumela wekherubic.

“Kugqugquzelwa ukucwayiza okusesweni lakho okuthola ngemva kokukhala,” kusho uKenealy.Ugcizelela ukuthi ukubukeka kuwubuhle nje, hhayi ukungathembeki."Abantu - ikakhulukazi abesilisa - bebelokhu bephawula 'u-Amber Heard' kuvidiyo yami," esho, ebhekise ezihlweleni zabalandeli bakaJohnny Depp TikTok abakholelwa ukuthi owayengunkosikazi wakhe waqamba amanga esigcawini mayelana nokuhlukumeza kwakhe.“Izimonyo engingeke ngizigqokise ngaphandle.Akuhloselwe ukukhohlisa noma ubani.”

Usizi, noma okungenani ukusebenza kwakho, kugcwele i-TikTok - mhlawumbe ngoba kugcwele umhlaba wangempela, futhi.Kunhlolovo Yentsha yase-Harvard yango-2021, ngaphezu kwengxenye yentsha yaseMelika yathi izizwe “iphansi, icindezelekile, noma ingenathemba” ezinsukwini eziyisikhombisa ezedlule.

Futhi enkathini yezimpi zomhlaba wonke, ubandlululo oludlangile, isimo sezulu esibucayi esingalawuleki kanye nesizungu esikhulu, udebe olulula olubomvu alusanele.Esikhundleni salokho, kuqhamuke izitayela zobuhle ukuze zifane nokungalungi kwanamuhla.Kukhona “i-dissociative pout”, i-iD ebize ngodadewabo omncane “we-lobotomy-chic, onamehlo afile” kuzindebe zedada ezidlula manje ezazinabagqugquzeli bama-2010s ekubambeni.Ungakubona ekubhalweni okuku-inthanethi okufana nonodoli we-Euphoria's breakout waif u-Chloe Cherry, noma ukubuka okubekwe eceleni ekhasini lika-Olivia Rodrigo le-Instagram.

Noma yikuphi ukuhamba kungaba i-#SadGirlWalk uma ulalela i-Lana Del Rey futhi ubuka ngokulangazela ukude.I-hashtag, enokubukwa okungaphezu kuka-504,000, ihlanganisa amavidiyo abesifazane abasebasha ababukeka bedangele kuyilapho bedonsa ama-latte aqhwa futhi bebonisa izingubo zabo."Ake ngikhale ku-Taylor Swift ngenkathi ngihamba ngize ngingabe ngisakwazi," kuphawula omunye umsebenzisi ngesiqeshana sabo.

UFredrika Thelandersson, umcwaningi we-postdoctoral ezifundweni zemidiya nezokuxhumana e-Sweden's Lund University kanye nombhali wencwadi entsha ethi 21st Century Media and Female Mental Health, ufunda amasiko nemiphakathi yamantombazane aku-inthanethi.

"Esimeni samanje, osaziwayo nemikhiqizo bafuna ukuba nobuqiniso, babonakale bengokoqobo," kusho yena.“Enye indlela yokwenza lokhu ukudalula ukuxilongwa noma ukuveza ukuhlukumezeka.Kuyinzuzo ngempela ukukhombisa uhlobo oluthile lokuba sengozini.”

Lokhu kuhamba nge-TikTok, uThelandersson wachaza, ehlanza incazelo yolimi lwezokwelapha nolwengqondo.“Ukuzihlukanisa kuwuphawu lwe-PTSD, futhi manje sekuthathwa njengento yobuhle,” kusho yena."Lokhu kusho okuningi ngendlela abantu abangenzi kahle ngayo njengamanje futhi badinga ukwesekwa, futhi izinkundla zokuxhumana ziba yindawo lapho bengathola khona lokho abebengeke bakuthole ohlelweni lwezempilo lwendabuko."

Futhi kuthiwani uma othile ekhohlisa ukudabuka kwakhe ngezinyembezi zomgunyathi noma ngokubukeka okungelona iqiniso, okukude?

"Mhlawumbe ukwenza imizwa edabukisayo, kodwa kunesici somphakathi lapho uqaphela ukuthi abanye abantu bazizwa ngendlela efanayo, futhi lokho kuwuhlobo oluthile," kusho u-Thelandersson."Ungahlekisa ngalokho njengoba ufuna, kodwa kusenethemba ngandlela thile."

U-Gen Z akasona isizukulwane sokuqala ukuthola i-louche ehehayo - izithonjana ze-Gen X ezifana no-Fiona Apple, u-Courtney Love kanye nomufi u-Elizabeth Wurtzel bonke benza imisebenzi ngakho ngeminyaka yawo-90s.Umbhali u-Emily Gould uthole isiqalo sakhe ku-boom-aughts blogging boom, ngokufaka okuyiqiniso ngokweqile okuvame ukungena esigabeni sothando nenzondo.I-Emo idlala njengeParamore kanye ne-My Chemical Romance abusa amashadi omculo ka-2010, anamazwi okuvuma izono kanye nokubukeka okuseduze kwama-swoopy side bang kanye nezimonyo zamehlo amnyama ngendlela emangalisayo.

U-Audrey Wollen, umbhali owaqamba igama elithi “Sad Girl Theory” ngo-2014, wazuza udumo ku-inthanethi ngesiphakamiso sakhe sokuthi ukudabuka esidlangalaleni kuyindlela esemthethweni yokubhikisha ngokumelene ne-patriarchy (nakuba i-archetype ka-Wollen yentombazane ehlala ku-inthanethi ye-Tumblr yayivame ukushiwo ube mhlophe, mncane, uthandeke ngokwejwayelekile futhi ucebe ngokuzimela).

Kepha kulokhu, ukufinyelela okukhulu kwe-TikTok (cishe abasebenzisi abayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane eziyi-1 emazweni ayi-150) kusiza lo mkhuba ukusabalala ngenani elingakaze libonwe.“Ngicabanga ukuthi okunye kwalokhu yintsha nje ekwazi ukungena kakhulu ku-inthanethi,” kusho umbhali wobuhle be-InStyle uTamim Alnuweiri.“Ngesikhathi ngisemusha, nganginamathisele ikhanda lami efasiteleni ngenza sengathi ngikwividiyo yomculo lapho lina, kodwa inguqulo yabo yalokhu isobala kakhulu.”

UKelly Cutrone, inganekwane ye-PR eyasungula inkampani yePeople's Revolution futhi yavela kuThe Hills, The City and America's Next Top Model, wake wabhala incwadi yezeluleko zomsebenzi ebizwa ngokuthi Uma Kufanele Ukhale, Hamba Ngaphandle.“Yafundisa abantu indlela yokubhekana nemizwa yabo emsebenzini,” kusho yena.“Kuyadabukisa ukuthi ukudabuka kungaba umkhuba.Kodwa nginengane eneminyaka engu-20 ubudala, futhi lezo zingane zangena esihogweni [phakathi nalolu bhubhane].”

UCutrone usungule elakhe igama lokuchaza izingane azibona kumakilabhu muva nje: “zothando lwasebusuku”.Cabanga "ama-zombie dark angel vibes: izingane ezinqunu uhhafu ezibukeka zidelelekile, nalezi zimo eziyinqaba, ezigqolozelayo".

"Ziyizidalwa zasebusuku", uCutrone wanezela, ehleka u-Julia Fox, isithandwa semfashini enamehlo enyamazane ovame ukubonakala ezulazula emigwaqweni yaseNew York egqoke amajini asike kancane, amasudu omzimba e-Balenciaga, kanye nezingqimba ze-eyeliner emnyama.“Unale posses yamantombazane afika emicimbini yami kwesinye isikhathi futhi angamantombazane impela,” kusho uCutrone.“Amantombazane ayi-Twiggy awaseyena u-Elvira.”